Zelve Open Air Museum

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Zelve Open-Air Museum is a ghost town of three interlocking valleys where people actually lived in the caves, right up until erosion forced them out in the 1950s. We picked it as the down-to-earth counterpart to Göreme: less about painted churches and more about everyday cave life, with homes, kitchens, dovecotes, a rock-cut mosque and a small monastery all carved into the cliffs. It's wonderfully atmospheric and far quieter than the headline sites, so you can wander and explore at your own pace. Wear good shoes for the rocky paths, bring a torch for the darker tunnels, and skip the lowest collapsed sections, which can be unstable.